Coral Coast

26th October - 16th November 2016

9 Mile Beach

Within a couple of hours from Exmouth Airport to back camping on the beach. It was so good to be back in our little cubby house and on the road.

However......not with the rain!!! The first day and night of our three night stay we were the only ones here. Peace and quiet heaven.

Nicely tucked in against the dune out of the howling wind. Just us.

View south from the top of the dune behind us.

Home Sweet Home.

But, man, the rain. It poured and poured.

Oh well. Nothing to do but throw on the rain jacket and hit the beach fishing. And to quote an old saying. All we got was a wet arse and no fish!

Our neighbours for a couple of days.

And who would have ever thought...two Bev Youngs!!!

In between rain showers it was lovely going for long beach walks. So many birds.

Oyster Catchers.

Sandpipers.

These very tiny Sandpipers of some king (we think) are everywhere on the beaches. They flit around at a rapid rate and have been very hard to get a photo of. But finally got him!

Just love the beach flora.

Looking back across the bay to our camp.

Plenty of seaweed.


Coral Bay

Coral Bay was only a short drive from camp so we headed there for a visit to the post office to send some mail, bakery for a hot coffee and cake, and caravan park for a nice hot shower. Great day out!

The clear blue water and white sand never cease to impress - even on a lousy day.

This cute little lizard sat for ages for his photo.

Worroorra

(14 Mile Beach)

A long awaited destination. We had heard from many how beautiful this place is. Another Station Stay. $15.00 per night for a front row camp on a pristine, turquoise beach. Oh yeah. Only one problem. Someone needed to turn the fan off. Man, the wind was howling. Not to be daunted, though, we stayed for a week.

The track in.

The Station is enormous, with many different camping areas. We had a day drive checking out some of the other bays.

So many reefs to snorkel.

Looking back towards our camp in the distance.

We managed to find a spot that was a little bit tucked in from the wind. Once again, there were only a handful of other campers.

To make phone calls was a 10 minute drive up to Telstra Hill. And even that wasn't great.

The view from Telstra Hill while calling the family.

We had a few mornings when the wind eased off enough to wet a line. This catch was looking very exciting.

Reeling in a big one.

Almost there.

A rotten puffa fish. He was rather pretty though!

We have never seen one this big.

Running for the rod....another big one on.

Ha ha ha! Another one, just like the other one. Only bigger!

Even the cold wind and showers couldn't dampen our Happy Hour spirits!

One afternoon it was so windy we couldn't go outside at all. What else to do? Cook pizza and fresh bread!

Have some nibbles and wine, of course!

Dezzi on dinner duty. Rissoles and mash - yummm.

The water was beckoning to me. A short walk down the beach the reef comes right up to the shore, so time for some snorkelling.

Not much of note, but a few iridescent fish and some turtles (no pic).

These two posts are the markers for our camp site and I fancied them as "frames". The sunsets of course were beautiful every night.

The last two days the wind settled right down. Time to get comfy on the sand.

Now I'm a happy girl. Swim, swim, swim.

Loads of these little lizards scampering around the place.

So, the weather was perfect, but this place is awesome. Double Island without the traffic!

Carnarvon

There isn't a lot to see or do in Carnarvon so this was more of a "service stop". Oh, and the excitement at finding a caravan park with bountiful green, green grass! So everything got washed. The car, the van all the clothes. Even us!

A months worth of washing!

Carnarvon is situated on the Gascoyne River. As you can see it is just a bit dry! There has been no rainfall here since March 2015. The region is renowned for supply 70% of W.A.'s fresh produce, however, the most of the farms look to be really struggling.

We did find one thriving farm. These are new table grape vines, and the fluffy plants in the background is asparagus. I had no idea asparagus needs to grow for two years to get to the fluffy stage. It is then cut right back and the asparagus spears then grow, and get harvested. Interesting.

Lots of green table grapes.

Tomatoes/

Bananas.

The old rail line jetty.

Monkey Mia

Next stop the famous Monkey Mia dolphin experience. Well..camp fee $57.00 plus National Park Fee of $18.00. For a patch of gravel and no connected water. Probably the biggest rip off we have encountered so far. Anyhoo, at least we were out of the gale force winds.

Our patch of pardise?

Monkey Mia bay.

Storm clouds rolling in.

The view across the bay reminded us a bit of Rainbow Bay in Queensland.

Early rise the next morning to see the dolphins come in to shore. They are only fed two to three fish so as not to interfere with their natural hunting instincts. There is no physical interation, or signs to do tricks. Just natural behaviour. Numbers also vary every day.

Waiting on the jetty.

Loads of opportunistic pelicans hoping for a fish too!

Then the dolphins start cruising up and down the shore. What is it about dolphins that make us smile? Such a beautiful creature.

Six dolphins all in a row. They do this quite a bit. It is referred to as snagging. As in a row of sausages on the bbq!

Playtime.

That lovely perpetual smile.

National Park Ranger being nudged by an impatient dolphin!

Very nice restaurant for a welcome coffee and muffin.

 Shell Beach

Monkey Mia isn't the only point of interest along this piece of coast. Shell Beach is fascinating. The beach is covered in billions and billions of tiny shells called Fragum Cockles. Up to 2 klm deep!!!  The shells are mined and used to make local bricks for construction. Absolutely beautiful.

Shells as far as the eye can see.

This is all shell.

Dezzi checking out the shells.

So tiny.

The odd one out.

Close up of a shell brick. Would love some of these at our place.

Part of a brick wall at the Monkey Mia Resort.

Hamlin Pool

Hamlin Pool is famous for the Microbial Mats and Stromatolites. I had never heard of them before. They are very unique. Rather than me try and explain and get it wrong.....read on.....

Microbial Mats.

Growing into Stromatolites.

Acres of it.

Stromatolites.

Tourist.


Kalbarri

Kalbarri is a beautiful seaside town. We loved it here. It is surrounded by National Park. One area along the coast, and the other inland. The wind was still howling when we arrived, but the next day was picture perfect. Time to explore the ccoastline.

The countryside has changed from rugged red to almost nothing but wheatfields.

First glimpse of Kalbarri. More stunning ocean. coastline is spectacularly rugged.

Lots of different bays to explore. Mostly with boardwalks. No red dust tracks!

More whales.

Birds on a fence.

Clear, clear water.

Stunning rock colours.

Dezzi watching a pod of about 40 dolphins chasing fish. Awesome.

Looking across to Kalbarri.

Love the rugged coastal flora.

Next day off to explore more gorgeous gorges.

Back to trail hiking.

Nature's Window.

A few wild goats.

Sadly not deep enough for a swim.

So many amazing wildflowers.

Beautiful walking trails.

These pink shrubs are everywhere. The photo below is a close up of the blooms.

The sides of the road look like a botanical garden. Nature at its best.

We loved our stay in Kalbarri. Definitely a return destination.

Hutt Pink Lake

This lake is astounding. Approximately 14 klm in length and 2 klm in width. The pink hue is due to the presence of the carotenoid producing algae, Dunaliella salina, which is a source of beta-carotene, used as a food colouring agent and source of Vitamin A in cosmetics and supplements. Hutt Lagoon also provides a commercial suppluy of Artemia parthenogenetica brine shrimp. Artemia is a specialty feed used by prawn and fish farmers and the aquarium trade. So there you go!

It is so pretty.

Walking on the salt crust. Reminiscent of Lake Eyre.

Salt crust lines the beautiful pink lagoon.

Amazing how anything survives in this environment.

Pretty pink salt.

Hutt River Province

You can't come to this region without dropping in to see Prince Leonard in Hutt River Province and have your passport stamped.

Unfortunately, Old Prince Lenny had gone down to Geraldton at the ripe old age of 93 to do some shopping. We did meet one of his sons, Graeme, though.

If you are interested in how it all came about, the following is from their website:

The Formation of the Principality of Hutt River

The Cause The Casley family had been farming for more than twenty years when, having recently purchased the land that was to become the Principality of Hutt River, in November 1969 they received a Wheat Quota of 1647 bushels for the 18,500 acre property. Under this new Quota it would have taken five hundred years to crop the same average amount of wheat that had been harvested in the previous twenty years. The gross proceeds would not have even paid the interest on the hire purchase on two four-wheel drive tractors that were in use. This did not allow any return for maintenance of their homes and families, no income on which to survive let alone profit.. Naturally this was considered an intolerable situation in which to be placed. The matter of an appeal to remedy this situation was immediately considered. It was found that the Western Australian Government had in fact no legislation to judicially validate their action. However there was a Wheat Quota Bill before Parliament being discussed. The bill contained two clauses which were of grave concern: 1. No appeals would be allowed against the quotas granted: and: 2. No compensation would be allowed for any losses suffered as a result of quotas. These clauses strongly clashed with the law stating that “Her Majesty is liable in Tort as a master to a servant” and were considered as an attempt to deny a certain section of the public it's rights in law, making it imperative to lodge a strong protest against the wheat quota prior to the bill becoming law, for if this were to be applied against them in the letter of the law, no protest would have been allowed. A protest was therefore lodged with the Wheat Quota Board, the Premier of Western Australia and the Governor of Western Australia, Sir Douglas Kendrew. No reply was received from the Wheat Quota Board or the Premier of Western Australia. However, the Governor took the matter up, calling for Ministerial advice. The Governor duly passed down the Ministerial advice that no alteration whatsoever would be allowed to the Casley’s Western Australian State Government wheat quota. The principal in law of "Unjust Enrichment" was now applicable to this situation. It states "If something is unjustly taken, compensation must be made" and Her Majesty's law of Tort now fully applied. How to effect a reversal of the Governor's decision was a tough question. The necessity to do so was imperative. Therefore it was decided to appeal to Her Majesty with a call for Independence. This would draw attention to the actual gravity of the situation. Further, a claim under the Unjust Enrichment would add further weight. The wheat quota ratio was used to calculate the damage. Under this quota it would be necessary to purchase an additional 1,800,000 acres of land to be able to crop wheat to the total acreage that could otherwise have been done without the quota. This additional vast acreage would have cost approximately $52,000,000. As the purpose of the Claim was not to obtain money, it was done as a "Territorial Compensation Claim" which was in addition to the appeal for independence. This was duly lodged with the State Governor Sir Douglas Kendrew, who accepted the claim. The day after the claim was lodged there were Ministerial moves. Two weeks later a bill was introduced into Parliament whereby the Government would have the power to resume any rural lands. The exercising of such power to resume any rural lands by the Western Australian Government upon the Casley families, should the bill have become law, may well have been an easy answer to the claim on the West Australian Government. By this time they were not only annoyed and gravely concerned, but were also frightened. A family meeting was called to consider the gravity of the situation. At this meeting a law was discussed which states that if the economy has been taken and a threat to the loss of the lands exists, a self-preservation Government may be formed. It was decided to exercise this entitlement and serve a formal secession notice. This would effect a judicial block against any resumption of their lands under Western Australian administrative law, as the law states that all administrative laws existing cease immediately upon secession and must be re-legislated. The Secession So on the twenty-first day of April 1970, formal notice of secession was duly served on the Western Australian State Premier Sir David Brand, the State Governor Sir Douglas Kendrew, the Acting Prime Minister of Australia Mr John McEwen, and the Governor General of Australia, Sir Paul Hasluck. The formal secession document contained two parts: Firstly the secession and secondly the offering of Sovereignty to Her Majesty. The latter is now by judicial law invested with the Government in occupancy. The Queen could have accepted under a Royal Prerogative absolute. The Queen did not have to take Ministerial advice. This is one of the very few such prerogatives left to Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II. The Governor of Western Australia immediately convened a meeting between his Secretary and The Administrator of the Hutt River Province Mr Leonard Casley. The matter for discussion was the potential of this small land locked country. Sir Paul Hasluck wrote asking to do nothing further until they had heard from the Commonwealth of Australia Government. To this they cordially agreed. Subsequently the Acting Prime Minister of Australia wrote that he could not intervene. A copy of this letter was sent to Sir Paul Hasluck. In reply he wrote that it was unconstitutional for the Commonwealth to intervene in this secession. The Casleys replied that upon this commitment the law of estoppel was now considered to be in full application. Section 9(1.2.43.) of the Westminster Statute in conjunction with Section 61 of the Western Australian Constitution were relative, as was the Section of the Commonwealth Constitution which allowed the Commonwealth to waive any constitutional powers it may have to allow a problem to be proceeded with. This authority to proceed had in effect been granted by the referenced letter if any constitutional powers were to be argued at a latter stage. Discussions in correspondence with Sir Paul Hasluck, after being raised by Sir Douglas Kendrew, suggested that the passing of an Imperial Statute and issuance of a confirmatory document were not necessary for the validity of the secession; that in this case validity came from the Entitlement duly exercised. The Formation Having seceded from the Commonwealth of Australia and the State of Western Australia required that the people of the Province elect a Government. A Board of four Administrators with Leonard George Casley as the Administrator was duly elected to govern the seceded area which the Board named the HUTT RIVER PROVINCE. Adoption of a Provincial Flag was also a judicial requirement with which the Board duly complied. Then the British Diplomatic Laws of recognition of a new foreign Government were followed. Firstly it is a Royal Prerogative to recognise a new foreign Government; and secondly in the Principle in Law when it is under consideration to give such recognition it is specified that validity is not the question, and that the right of the Government to speak for the people it represents is to be considered. The Government of the Hutt River Province was the only Government speaking for the people of its Territories and it had emerged as a self-preservation Government. Two exchanges of correspondence were made with the Governor General's Department with the data as required. Following the second exchange Mr Leonard Casley was then cordially addressed as the Administrator of the Hutt River Province. The Royal Prerogative states that once this recognition is given it is binding on all Courts. Laws upon Royal Prerogative state that no court may inquire into the whys and wherefores of any Royal Prerogative exercised. Precedent case listings also rule that if any recognition is given by the person authorised to do the business of the day who should otherwise have obtained some other authority, firstly, having failed to do so does not invalidate his recognition so given. The Limitations Act also states that once any recognition is given to a person entitled then the Statute runs from that fact. Thus the new Government, the Administration Board of the Hutt River Province was in fact the dejure Government. No further formalising of the Act of Secession was essential. However, the Act of Secession was not, in a true sense, a unilateral act, for following the submission of the formal secession document an offer was made to Sir Douglas Kendrew to submit to an arbitrator regarding this dispute. This offer was not taken up by the Governor or the Premier of Western Australia. Not long after the secession there was a change of Australian Prime Minister. Upon taking office, the new Prime Minister let little time elapse before advising the press that he did not recognise the secession or the Government of The Hutt River Province. Faced with this formidable opposition the people of the Province sought an answer within the framework of the British sources of protection. A meeting of Hutt River Province was duly called to discuss the status of a law which holds that anyone assisting a defacto Prince attain his office cannot be charged with treason. This law goes on further to say that anyone hindering a defacto Prince in the discharge of his Princely duties may be charged with treason. Therefore they adopted the status of a Principality and bestowed the title of Prince upon The Administrator, thereby gaining further protection than they otherwise had. Thus the Administrator of the Hutt River Province became H.R.H. Prince Leonard George Casley. The Hutt River Province became the Principality of Hutt River.

Good Old Prince Leonard.

It has a Post Office and Government Offices building.

A Non Denominational Church. A tourist shop and not much else! It is still a working farm.

Heading back out into Australia. Very interesting. And I love that he stuck it to the Australian Government, and won!

Geraldton

Just an overnight stop in Geraldton. Luxury camp site at the Port! This is provided free of charge specifically for 24 hour camping. There is even free showers and toilets. This would have been fine if a ship wasn't being loaded with ore all night!

Nothing like relaxing on the bitumen in 43 degree heat!

On the up side, it was the "super moon". Beautiful evening, after a great steak dinner at the pub down the corner.

Next morning watched Royal Carribean Radiance of the Seas parked up. Brilliant to watch them manouver such a huge ship into a small port.

From Geraldton to  we called into some lovely seaside towns.

Dongarra.

Sandy Cape

This is a great National Park camp. The first day was heaven. Even got a swim in. However, during the night the rain came and the winds howled again. So we packed up between showers and headed for Moore River, and our buddies Mike and Margo. Very excited to be seeing them again.

Great camp spot.

The storm clouds rolling in early in the morning again after rain most of the night.

Had a great floaty swim at the end of the beach near the rock. No seaweed there.

After all the amazing red, red hills of the Pilbara and Kimberly, the landscape now is nothing but sand dunes.

And thousands of grass trees, for miles and miles.

This stretch of coastline is specatcular, and we will definitely be back to explore some of the beaches we didn't get to spend time at. And also re-visit our favourites.