The Flinders Ranges
Quorn & Warren Gorge
25th August - 2nd September 2017
What a great little town. We had a couple of stops here.
The Quorn Railway Station. Home of the Pichi Richi rail.
The Old Ghan track.
Walking into the Emporium Café is like stepping back in time. A lot of the films made in Quorn have scenes shot in this amazing shop. And the food was fabulous. The Emporium was our first pie stop of many, as it turns out, throughout the Ranges.
The old Flying Fox money system still hangs from the ceiling and is in perfect working order. Money from purchases is placed in a little bag and attached to the system. It then whizzes at a great rate of knots to the main enclosed office to be kept secure.
So much memorabilia.
The Flying Fox. Pull the wooden handle and off she goes.
There are three pubs in Quorn, all lined up. What else to do but a pub crawl of course!
Just love old pubs in country towns.
Pub One. The Transcontinental.
Stop two. The Austral. Very friendly locals, and the most entertaining Publican - Nadine.
Didn't actually get a photo at the Criterion, but we did go there. The Austral, however, was the liveliest so we headed back there!
Great view of the range and our camp. You can just make out our van in centre shot at the end of the track!
Dezzi kept a great fire going every night. Quite skilled with an axe!
Toasty warm.
Rugged up for happy hour around the fire. So happy to have our cosy caravan now.
Billy was rounding up the girls.
So day one thought we would get the "big" walk out of the way. The Warren Gorge Loop Trail is 5.2klms long and takes you to a look-out locally known as Smoke-Oh Lookout. Apparently quite the spot to stop and admire the view.
Start of the trail.
The view from Smoke-Oh Lookout.
He loves my cuddles really, despite the look on his face. And loves hikes even more!!!
Trail back down the other side.
Yakka flower.
Native spring flowers are just starting to emerge. The bees are pretty happy.
Hugh's gravesite.
These little stumpy tailed shingle back lizards are everywhere in the Flinders. This is the first one we saw, and thought it was pretty neat. Turns out they are very common!
What isn't common is the Yellow Footed Rock Wallaby. Not a great shot, but we were excited to spot one along the way.
The Willochra Creek that claimed Hugh Proby's life. Clearly not in flood today.
An easy stroll to the Buckaringa Lookout.
King of the Castle.
Love a good look around old ruins.
What possesses people to think this harsh landscape would be a beaut place to set up shop and live still escapes me.
Yuummmm!
Cheers dears!
A brilliant afternoon.
So after a very relaxing week, we headed back to Quorn to explore the town more, have a fabulous dinner and rowdy night at the Austral Pub, a hike up Devil's Peak, topped off with a day at the local Spring Races.
All the action is inside!
Some fabulous old buildings.
Had a walk around the Native Flora Reserve.
The wattles are in full bloom everywhere. Beautiful, and love the unique fragrance.
Happy bees, on native daisies.
Butterflies galore.
Local ringneck parrot.
Off to tackle the Devil's Peak hike. It was blowing a gale.
Hiking solo today.
Unfortunately it was so incredibly windy I didn't get to the Peak for fear of being blown off. The view was still great though.
Nearly made it.
So, feeling energised. Back to camp to get ready for the Races.
This is a major annual event in any country town, and everyone was out for a big day.
The track looks a bit dry and dusty! Our horse still managed to come in first!!!
Winner, winner chicken dinner!
Of course there is always the Fashions on the Field.
This bloke got our vote, though, for best mullet - ha ha! Great day out.
Hit the road again to move further north to Hawker, with a stop off at some more ruins.
Kanyaka Station Ruins
3rd September 2017
Kanyaka Station was established as a cattle station in February 1852 by Hugh Proby, whose grave we saw while at Warren Gorge.
Ground plan of the Homestead.
View of the Station.
The main Homestead.
Men's kitchen.
Hawker
3rd - 5th September 2017
Hawker was established in 1880 as a railway town. these days it is very quiet, and a jumping off point for the Flinders. We still managed to find a few things to do.
A walk around the town, of course. A couple of short walks. And a look around the Jeff Morgan Gallery.
The old Hawker Railway Station, now a restaurant. Closed the day we were there!
Hmmmm. No lunch for us today.
Oh well....off to the pub.
Cheers to Dezzi. Happy Father's Day drinks.
First walking trail - Jarvis Hill.
Thought the turnstile was a bit odd, but we didn't have to pay.
Rocky inclines. Dezziz favourites.
Spectacular view from the top.
Rugged beauty.
Rugged up hikers.
Taking in the serenity and vista.
Next walked, nice and easy, to Castle Rock.
The ground is so barren and harsh.
Castle Rock.
Incredible artwork. These murals are painted on the walls of the building. They are HUGE!
Rawnsley Park
5th - 8th September 2017
Three nights at Rawnsley Station to get into some serious hiking. Not a bad park to base ourselves for a few days. Like everywhere out here - dry and dusty.
Just so you know how the Ranges were formed.
Back on the dirt and hello old friends corrugations!
Stopped off for a short walk. The creek looks a bit grungy.
The River Red Gums throughout the region are MASSIVE! and incredibly beautiful. They never cease to impress us.
We came across these old cueing yards. Old talk for shoeing yards.
Amazing. Constructed in 1870 and still standing.
The rails attached to the trees.
Survey marker. There is another at the top of Rawnsley Bluff. View of the western rim of Wilpena Pound in the background.
Outer Wilpena Pound.
Can't come here without a stop at the famous Prairie Hotel for a Feral Platter and a Fargah Lager!. Very delicious - emu, kangaroo, goat, lamb on an anti pasto platter.
The Heysen Range on the way back across.
And to finish off the day - a few refreshments around the fire with Sue and Roger. Dezziz new beanie thanks to Sue. She had a huge bag full.
Walk number one in Rawnsley. Clem Corner. A 5 klm loop walk. Great way to fill in the afternoon while Dez is back at camp.
Damn....was looking forward to a dip!
Bit of a rocky path.
Photo opportunity.
View over the Arkaba Hills to the Elder Ranges.
Came around a bend and was confronted with a pile of kangaroo carcasses under a rock. Gave me a fright I must say!
The caravan camp is on a working sheep station, so plenty of these fellows around.
Looking towards Rawnsley Bluff.
Stunning Red Gums along the dry creek.
Flowering gums aplenty.
And I'm off.
So far, so good.
My destination.
Bonney Sandstone cliffs. Stunning.
I just love how delicate flowers grow amongst the rocks.
And the scrambling begins.
Got my trusty leg protectors on in case of snakes! Feeling very professional.
Panoramic vista number one - Wilpena Pound.
Stunning. Very hazy, so hard to get a clear photo.
Not quick enough for the selfie!
Breathtaking view of Wilpena.
Wilpena Pound.
Back on the main trail looking towards the Chace Range.
Looking back where I've come from.
Almost there!
And what a view. Sweating and puffing, but feeling fantastic.
Just me and my picnic - cheese and pickle sanga, apple, mandy and a couple of quandong chocolates. So peaceful. I have not seen one other person yet.
Adding my own little rock to the Survey Cairn which was constructed in 1858 by Samuel Parry.
taking in the vista of the Chace Range.
Hmmmm. Now to get back down. This was really hard. scrambling over rocks and hanging onto tree branches. Worked up quite a sweat I can tell you.
Finally back on the flat and feeling energised. Actually managed a brisk pace even at this stage. Quite proud of myself for conquering this hike. I would have thought it to be a popular challenge as the camp was full. However, I only met two other couples on my way back down.
Walk number three. Alison Saddle / Kangaroo Gap Lookout. About 3klm. Piece of cake after yesterday's effort.
View towards the Elder Range.
Smoke-Oh stop and photo op.
Elder Range.
Lots of these lovely bushes. A great walk to stretch the legs and keep the muscles going.
Tourist photo.
Our camp at Upalinna Station. Huge gravel area and no-one else in sight.
All the mod cons.
Once again, a working sheep station, so plenty of these guys around.
Stunning sunsets every night while having a beveridge around the camp fire.
There is lots to explore around Wilpena Pound, besides the Pound itself. First day we did some of the short walks to keep Dezzi happy.
Wilpena Solar Power Station Walk. "Short walk to discover the Solar Power Station at Wilpena". Yep...that's what it was. 500m return. Nice warm up!
Yeah - there's the panels.
This is a constant frustration. Rubbish. People come to enjoy the beauty of the country but leave their sh($£&*%£*& everywhere. We often grab a bag and do a bit of pick up duty.
Typical boy - had to play with the skeleton.
Next stop the Sacred Canyon Walk. Another 500m return to take in some Aborginal Rock carvings.
Incredible rock formations.
Rock carvings.
We did go a bit further up and over the rocks.
To see more carvings.
Love a good dead tree.
And back down the track.
The Flinders Ranges is home to hundreds of emus. I swear it must be the breeding ground for the rest of the country.
The original Homestead.
One of the old buildings showing timber and slab construction. Very popular back in the day.
Old relics.
The Blacksmith's cottage.
Now, I thought this was really neat. Utilising the tree as the main post and the fence going off in all directions.
Blacksmith's workshed.
Blacksmith's workshed.
Stables.
Store house. The shelves are hung from the ceiling to stop mice from getting amongst the dry goods.
Click go the shears. Imagine how strong the shearer's hands were.
The family plot.
This old building had wire all around to hold it together ha ha !!
Even the family pets had a cemetery.
Birds of the bush.
Flowering fruit trees.
A day off walking and another 4WD scenic drive day. Today's points of interest are Razorback Lookout, Bunnyeroo Valley Lookout, Brachina Gorge Geological Trail.
View from Razorback Lookout.
Beautiful, rough and rugged.
Heysen Range.
Heysen Range.
Delicate wildflowers.
Layers of Bonney Sandstone.
This sign amused us.
This is a hut for hikers doing the Heysen Trail, to sleep in overnight.
Not much left of the family home! Great day out.
Hills Homestead / Wangara Lookout Walk. 7klm return to take in the pioneering heritage inside Wilpena Pound. Dez dropped me off, so solo again.
The majority of the walk is a flat track. Feel a bit cheated after my Rawnsley Bluff hike a few days ago.
A leisurely boardwalk even.
I would have to say this is the most stunning, lifelike sculpture I have ever seen. The feeling was that he was looking right at you.
There was no information of who had done this, which was disappointing. Brilliant.
At last, back to a bit of a challenge.
And the view over the inside of the Wilpena Pound.
Awesome.
The Hills Homestead inside Wilpena Pound. The following story boards tell the family story. It is a true story of how resilient our pioneers were. Worth a read.
Another great walk.
There are a few lookouts around the area. At the top of this one was an amazing model of Wilpena Pound.
Today Dez came for a walk. Nice and easy. Living with Land walk. 3klm return loop. Turned out to be a bit more challenging than first anticipated, but he did well.
Even more emus. This daddy had 11 babies to look after.
Just a bush photo.
More of our little friends Stumpy Tailed Shingle Back Lizards.
The bush is so dry.
Up, up, up the track.
He was such a good sport he was allowed an ice cream at the end. Quite a hot day today.
At various locations around the region the annual Brush with Art displays were being held. This one at the old Wilpena Woolshed. Some beautiful artwork.
The old woolshed.
Some of the art.
Cazneuax's Tree is a much loved and very famous tree near Wilpena Pound in the Flinders Ranges. It came to its fame in 1937 when Harold Cazneaux photographed it and called it "Spirit of Endurance" as testament to life in such a hard and unforgiving environment. His photo won international acclaim and since then the tree has been photographed and painted many times.
Harold Cazneuax (30 March 1878 – 19 June 1953) was a pioneer of Australian photography.
Said tree.
The Duck Pond...the only water we saw the whole time in the region.
So time to empty the dunny and head to the next stop.
Upalinna Station was a great camp.
On route to our next stop of Blinman, is a natural rock wall that has been named The Great Wall of China.
Quite impressive. A natural rock wall along the hill top.
More wildflowers surviving amongst the rocky ground.
Blinman
13th - 14th September 2017
Blinman is an historic copper town surrounded by spectacular hilly desert countryside.
So off to have a tour.
Hiding in the entry. The wind was freezing!
In we go. Mind boggling to think these tunnels were all hand picked out.
So they dug out tunnels and then picked the rock upwards opening up the top. Our guide told a story of the young boys used to dare each other to jump from one side to the other. Bearing in mind it was 180 metre drop below. Amazingly no-one ever fell!
After the rock was picked, the boys (starting underground at age 14) would run barrow loads of rock back to the surface. All this basically working in the dark, 12 hours a day, 6 days a week.
A bit of copper still in the rock.
A warren of tunnels.
One of the old bridges across a tunnel. There were layers of tunnels.
This lovely copper bucket sculpture in the town.
Spent the night just down the Parachilna Gorge road at a free camp. Lovely winter morning to enjoy my coffee.
Parachilna Gorge
14th - 16th September 2017
A couple of lazy days free camping in the Parachilna Gorge. Beautiful sunny days and a peaceful setting. Just need to get across the rugged Parachilna Gorge road.
Fabulous countryside.
Man..the things you see.
The new van handled the rough brilliantly.
Halfway along the 33klm road is Angorichina. I had really wanted to walk out to the Blinman Pools, but it was 12klm return, and didn't fancy doing it on my own. Maybe another time?
Camping ground and general store. The store was amazing. It had everything, including a very good wine range. We picked up a very nice Wirra Wirra Scrubby Rise Shiraz - 1.5 lt bottle no less for $38. What a bargain all the way out here.
It's all out here......crests, dips and curves.
Our camp at Parachilna Gorge. Emus galore yet again.
A bit of a walk up the gorge. The flies were a bit friendly here. Note Dezzi has his faithful swat in hand.
Love the colours in the rock.
More goats.
And delicate flowers surviving the harsh environment.
Of course, it's not the bush without squawking corellas to keep us amused.
A row of ducks.
The daily emu parade.
Pretty good front yard.
Dez paying attention......maybe.
Some of his sculptures.
Think the van has seen better days.
Home sweet home.
Lyndhurst is the jump off for the Strzelecki Track. We drove up about 500 metres just to say we have been on the Strzelecki ha ha !
Back in Leigh Creek, we took a drive out to Aroona Dam. Very pleasant.
That Dam wall.
How's this. An Auzzie cave!!!
While at Copley, they also had a sign out for the "best pies in the Flinders". What else to do. Grab a couple more.
We now have a freezer full of pies.
So we well and truly discovered the Flinders. What an amazing region. It had so much more to see and do than we expected, and we loved it all. Absolutely a must do on anyone's travel list.
Now to pack up and head south. A big day on the road - 300 klms to our next stop at Melrose. A quick stop in Quorn to pick up some supplies and lunch at the Emporium Café - and to pick up yet another pie for the freezer!
The Flinders Ranges are the largest mountain range in South Australia, which starts about 200 km north of Adelaide. The discontinuous ranges stretch for over 430 km from Port Pirie to Lake Callabonna.
Its most characteristic landmark is Wilpena Pound, a large, sickle-shaped, natural amphitheatre that covers 80 km2, and contains the range's highest peak, St Mary Peak(1,171m) which adjoins the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park. The northern ranges are protected by the Arkaroola Protection Area and the Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park.
There are several small areas in the Ranges These include the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park near Wilpena Pound, the Arkaroola Protection Area in the north, The Dutchmans Stern Conservation Park west of Quorn.
Driving through the Flinders Ranges, you’ll find silent, dusty red roads bordered by towering ancient cliffs and deep craters. The jewel in the crown is Wilpena Pound - a natural amphitheatre that spans about 100 kilometres.
We found it interesting that there is not a range called "Flinders". The ranges are ABC Range, Heysen Range, Chace Range, Elder Range, Ulowdna Range, Bunyinbunna Range and a couple more.
So there was plenty to discover and explore......and walk and hike!!!
25th August - 2nd September 2017
What a great little town. We had a couple of stops here.
Quorn, in the heart of the Flinders Ranges, has been the backdrop for many Australian Films, including Sunday Too Far Away, The Shiralee, Gallipoli, The Water Diviner and Wolf Creek to mention just a few. I picked up a list and there were 26 films on it. Sadly we just missed the last filming of the Wolf Creek series by about a week.
Quorn is famous for the Pichi Richi Railway. Built in the 1870's the railway is a narrow gauge railway and the last remaining portion of the original Old Ghan railway line. Two of the best walks in the area are Devil's Peak and Warren Gorge, so we tackled both of those.
The town itself has lots of history and beautiful, well maintained historical buildings. Oh...and pubs!!!
The Quorn Railway Station. Home of the Pichi Richi rail.
The Old Ghan track.
The old Flying Fox money system still hangs from the ceiling and is in perfect working order. Money from purchases is placed in a little bag and attached to the system. It then whizzes at a great rate of knots to the main enclosed office to be kept secure.
So much memorabilia.
The Flying Fox. Pull the wooden handle and off she goes.
There are three pubs in Quorn, all lined up. What else to do but a pub crawl of course!
Just love old pubs in country towns.
Pub One. The Transcontinental.
Stop two. The Austral. Very friendly locals, and the most entertaining Publican - Nadine.
Didn't actually get a photo at the Criterion, but we did go there. The Austral, however, was the liveliest so we headed back there!
Next, off to Warren Gorge for a week of peace, serenity and looooong walks. This was a brilliant camp. Acres of park to choose a site, so we were pretty much on our own the whole week. An occasional neighbour, but never close.
Think that sign has been there a while.
Great view of the range and our camp. You can just make out our van in centre shot at the end of the track!
The weather was a little chilly, but the sun shone most days. Plenty of lazy time for both of us in the hammock. This is only the second time we have been able to sling the hammock since leaving home! You would think there could have been more opportunities, but the perfect span of trees is hard to find. The last time was Cape Leveque!
Dezzi kept a great fire going every night. Quite skilled with an axe!
Toasty warm.
Wild goats are quite a pest throughout the Flinders. They kept us amused though. These lot right in front of our camp.
Billy was rounding up the girls.
So day one thought we would get the "big" walk out of the way. The Warren Gorge Loop Trail is 5.2klms long and takes you to a look-out locally known as Smoke-Oh Lookout. Apparently quite the spot to stop and admire the view.
Start of the trail.
He loves my cuddles really, despite the look on his face. And loves hikes even more!!!
Stunning view and lots of Yakka plants. the Yakka has many uses; the resin extract can be used as an adhesive, the fleshy heart shaped bulb inside the trunk can be eaten, and the external parts of the trunk can be burnt and inhaled to improve the sinuses. Pretty handy plant to have!
Yakka flower.
Native spring flowers are just starting to emerge. The bees are pretty happy.
Wild irises. Stunning.
This was a great walk, and I did the last couple of klms a few times over the week we were there.
Time for a "tourist drive" day. Further on from Warren Gorge the dirt road took us to Proby's Grave, Buckaringa Scenic Drive and Simmonston Ruins.
First stop Proby's Grave. The early settlers really did it hard.
Hugh's gravesite.
What isn't common is the Yellow Footed Rock Wallaby. Not a great shot, but we were excited to spot one along the way.
The Willochra Creek that claimed Hugh Proby's life. Clearly not in flood today.
An easy stroll to the Buckaringa Lookout.
King of the Castle.
View from the lookout.
Interesting.
What possesses people to think this harsh landscape would be a beaut place to set up shop and live still escapes me.
Our daily two kilometre stroll to the rubbish bins took us past this lovely little glen. In my opinion just screaming out for a picnic. So that's what we did on our last day. It was warm and sunny, and absolutely perfect.
Packed the "good" wine, some gourmet snacks, the iPad for music and off we went.
Yuummmm!
Cheers dears!
A brilliant afternoon.
So after a very relaxing week, we headed back to Quorn to explore the town more, have a fabulous dinner and rowdy night at the Austral Pub, a hike up Devil's Peak, topped off with a day at the local Spring Races.
All the action is inside!
Some fabulous old buildings.
Had a walk around the Native Flora Reserve.
The wattles are in full bloom everywhere. Beautiful, and love the unique fragrance.
Happy bees, on native daisies.
Butterflies galore.
Local ringneck parrot.
Off to tackle the Devil's Peak hike. It was blowing a gale.
Hiking solo today.
Unfortunately it was so incredibly windy I didn't get to the Peak for fear of being blown off. The view was still great though.
Nearly made it.
This is a major annual event in any country town, and everyone was out for a big day.
The track looks a bit dry and dusty! Our horse still managed to come in first!!!
Winner, winner chicken dinner!
Of course there is always the Fashions on the Field.
This bloke got our vote, though, for best mullet - ha ha! Great day out.
Hit the road again to move further north to Hawker, with a stop off at some more ruins.
3rd September 2017
Kanyaka Station was a cattle and sheep station in the Flinders Ranges located approximately 40 km north of Quorn. The area was inhabited by Aborigines for thousands of years before European settlement. The traditional owners of the area are the Banggarla peoples. The name of the station is taken from the Aboriginal word thought to mean Place of stone.
Kanyaka Station was established as a cattle station in February 1852 by Hugh Proby, whose grave we saw while at Warren Gorge.
Under subsequent owners, the station grew in size until it was one of the largest in the district with 70 families living and working there. Because of the difficulties of transport, the station had to be very self-sufficient and Kanyaka station grew to include a large homestead, cottages for workers, workshops, huts and sheds, mostly built from local stone due to limited supplies of workable local timber. The station switched from cattle to sheep, but had cows, pigs, and vegetable gardens to supply food for the residents. There was also a cemetery. Proby was not buried in the Kanyaka cemetery, as it had not yet been established at the time of his death.
Severe droughts resulted in massive losses of sheep and eventually the station was abandoned. Due to its stone construction, many of the buildings survive today as ruins.
Ground plan of the Homestead.
View of the Station.
The main Homestead.
Men's kitchen.
I'd say it has been a while since the river had any water in it.
3rd - 5th September 2017
Hawker was established in 1880 as a railway town. these days it is very quiet, and a jumping off point for the Flinders. We still managed to find a few things to do.
A walk around the town, of course. A couple of short walks. And a look around the Jeff Morgan Gallery.
The old Hawker Railway Station, now a restaurant. Closed the day we were there!
Hmmmm. No lunch for us today.
Oh well....off to the pub.
Cheers to Dezzi. Happy Father's Day drinks.
First walking trail - Jarvis Hill.
Rocky inclines. Dezziz favourites.
Rugged beauty.
Rugged up hikers.
Taking in the serenity and vista.
Next walked, nice and easy, to Castle Rock.
Castle Rock.
While Dez fuelled up the Paj and got us ready to head off, I took a walk around the Jeff Morgan Gallery. There are a number of enormous murals of the Flinders Ranges. Very impressive.
Incredible artwork. These murals are painted on the walls of the building. They are HUGE!
Rawnsley Park
5th - 8th September 2017
Three nights at Rawnsley Station to get into some serious hiking. Not a bad park to base ourselves for a few days. Like everywhere out here - dry and dusty.
Home for the next few days. Still loving our new van :)
Day one and off for some exploring in the car. Took a loop drive across the Moralana Scenic Drive up to Parachilna, then across the Parachilna Gorge Road and back to Rawnsley.
Back on the dirt and hello old friends corrugations!
Stopped off for a short walk. The creek looks a bit grungy.
The River Red Gums throughout the region are MASSIVE! and incredibly beautiful. They never cease to impress us.
We came across these old cueing yards. Old talk for shoeing yards.
Amazing. Constructed in 1870 and still standing.
The rails attached to the trees.
Survey marker. There is another at the top of Rawnsley Bluff. View of the western rim of Wilpena Pound in the background.
Outer Wilpena Pound.
Can't come here without a stop at the famous Prairie Hotel for a Feral Platter and a Fargah Lager!. Very delicious - emu, kangaroo, goat, lamb on an anti pasto platter.
The Heysen Range on the way back across.
And to finish off the day - a few refreshments around the fire with Sue and Roger. Dezziz new beanie thanks to Sue. She had a huge bag full.
Walk number one in Rawnsley. Clem Corner. A 5 klm loop walk. Great way to fill in the afternoon while Dez is back at camp.
Damn....was looking forward to a dip!
Bit of a rocky path.
Photo opportunity.
View over the Arkaba Hills to the Elder Ranges.
Came around a bend and was confronted with a pile of kangaroo carcasses under a rock. Gave me a fright I must say!
The caravan camp is on a working sheep station, so plenty of these fellows around.
Looking towards Rawnsley Bluff.
Stunning Red Gums along the dry creek.
Flowering gums aplenty.
Walk (hike) number two. Today is the day. The big one. Rawnsley Bluff Hike. Rated as difficult, but I'm up for the challenge. 14.2 klm in total including a side track to see the view over Wilpena Pound.
The trail follows the creek bed for 600m before climbing the foothills of the main range consisting of Bonney Sandstone. The trail gradually steepens to a rocky climb which brings you to Lone Pine Lookout. From here, the worst of the climb is over and the trail becomes less steep as you approach the summit.
And I'm off.
So far, so good.
My destination.
Bonney Sandstone cliffs. Stunning.
I just love how delicate flowers grow amongst the rocks.
And the scrambling begins.
Got my trusty leg protectors on in case of snakes! Feeling very professional.
Panoramic vista number one - Wilpena Pound.
Stunning. Very hazy, so hard to get a clear photo.
That's better - at the Wilpena Lookout.
Breathtaking view of Wilpena.
Wilpena Pound.
Back on the main trail looking towards the Chace Range.
Looking back where I've come from.
Almost there!
And what a view. Sweating and puffing, but feeling fantastic.
Just me and my picnic - cheese and pickle sanga, apple, mandy and a couple of quandong chocolates. So peaceful. I have not seen one other person yet.
Adding my own little rock to the Survey Cairn which was constructed in 1858 by Samuel Parry.
taking in the vista of the Chace Range.
Hmmmm. Now to get back down. This was really hard. scrambling over rocks and hanging onto tree branches. Worked up quite a sweat I can tell you.
Finally back on the flat and feeling energised. Actually managed a brisk pace even at this stage. Quite proud of myself for conquering this hike. I would have thought it to be a popular challenge as the camp was full. However, I only met two other couples on my way back down.
Walk number three. Alison Saddle / Kangaroo Gap Lookout. About 3klm. Piece of cake after yesterday's effort.
Smoke-Oh stop and photo op.
Elder Range.
Lots of these lovely bushes. A great walk to stretch the legs and keep the muscles going.
Wilpena Pound -
8th - 13th September 2017
We opted for a station stay at Wilpena. Upalinna Station. No neighbours - just us. Much better than the dry and dusty caravan park for twice the money! And only a 6klm drive into the Pound - no brainer.
Tourist photo.
Our camp at Upalinna Station. Huge gravel area and no-one else in sight.
All the mod cons.
Once again, a working sheep station, so plenty of these guys around.
Stunning sunsets every night while having a beveridge around the camp fire.
Wilpena Solar Power Station Walk. "Short walk to discover the Solar Power Station at Wilpena". Yep...that's what it was. 500m return. Nice warm up!
Yeah - there's the panels.
This is a constant frustration. Rubbish. People come to enjoy the beauty of the country but leave their sh($£&*%£*& everywhere. We often grab a bag and do a bit of pick up duty.
Typical boy - had to play with the skeleton.
Next stop the Sacred Canyon Walk. Another 500m return to take in some Aborginal Rock carvings.
Incredible rock formations.
Rock carvings.
We did go a bit further up and over the rocks.
To see more carvings.
Love a good dead tree.
And back down the track.
The Flinders Ranges is home to hundreds of emus. I swear it must be the breeding ground for the rest of the country.
While I had Dez on a roll we headed over to walk around the Old Wilpena Station.
The original Homestead.
One of the old buildings showing timber and slab construction. Very popular back in the day.
Old relics.
The Blacksmith's cottage.
Now, I thought this was really neat. Utilising the tree as the main post and the fence going off in all directions.
Blacksmith's workshed.
Blacksmith's workshed.
Stables.
Store house. The shelves are hung from the ceiling to stop mice from getting amongst the dry goods.
Click go the shears. Imagine how strong the shearer's hands were.
The family plot.
This old building had wire all around to hold it together ha ha !!
Even the family pets had a cemetery.
Birds of the bush.
Flowering fruit trees.
A day off walking and another 4WD scenic drive day. Today's points of interest are Razorback Lookout, Bunnyeroo Valley Lookout, Brachina Gorge Geological Trail.
View from Razorback Lookout.
Beautiful, rough and rugged.
Heysen Range.
Heysen Range.
Delicate wildflowers.
This sign amused us.
This is a hut for hikers doing the Heysen Trail, to sleep in overnight.
Not much left of the family home! Great day out.
Hills Homestead / Wangara Lookout Walk. 7klm return to take in the pioneering heritage inside Wilpena Pound. Dez dropped me off, so solo again.
The majority of the walk is a flat track. Feel a bit cheated after my Rawnsley Bluff hike a few days ago.
A leisurely boardwalk even.
I would have to say this is the most stunning, lifelike sculpture I have ever seen. The feeling was that he was looking right at you.
There was no information of who had done this, which was disappointing. Brilliant.
At last, back to a bit of a challenge.
And the view over the inside of the Wilpena Pound.
The Hills Homestead inside Wilpena Pound. The following story boards tell the family story. It is a true story of how resilient our pioneers were. Worth a read.
Another great walk.
There are a few lookouts around the area. At the top of this one was an amazing model of Wilpena Pound.
Today Dez came for a walk. Nice and easy. Living with Land walk. 3klm return loop. Turned out to be a bit more challenging than first anticipated, but he did well.
Even more emus. This daddy had 11 babies to look after.
Just a bush photo.
More of our little friends Stumpy Tailed Shingle Back Lizards.
The bush is so dry.
Up, up, up the track.
He was such a good sport he was allowed an ice cream at the end. Quite a hot day today.
At various locations around the region the annual Brush with Art displays were being held. This one at the old Wilpena Woolshed. Some beautiful artwork.
The old woolshed.
Cazneuax's Tree is a much loved and very famous tree near Wilpena Pound in the Flinders Ranges. It came to its fame in 1937 when Harold Cazneaux photographed it and called it "Spirit of Endurance" as testament to life in such a hard and unforgiving environment. His photo won international acclaim and since then the tree has been photographed and painted many times.
Harold Cazneuax (30 March 1878 – 19 June 1953) was a pioneer of Australian photography.
Said tree.
The Duck Pond...the only water we saw the whole time in the region.
So time to empty the dunny and head to the next stop.
Upalinna Station was a great camp.
On route to our next stop of Blinman, is a natural rock wall that has been named The Great Wall of China.
Quite impressive. A natural rock wall along the hill top.
More wildflowers surviving amongst the rocky ground.
Blinman
13th - 14th September 2017
Blinman is an historic copper town surrounded by spectacular hilly desert countryside.
Copper was discovered at Blinman by a shepherd, Robert Blinman in 1859. Blinman, who had a wooden leg, was known as ‘Peg Leg’. Two butchers in Adelaide, Henry and Thomas Martin, contacted Blinman and by 1861 they had a mineral lease on the land.
Copper mining occurred in the area from around 1862 through to 1918 when the ore ran out. In total around 10,000 tonnes of copper were removed from 200,ooo tons of ore from the area, with most of it being mined in the years between 1903-1918 when the town’s population peaked at around 2,000 people. The Yudnamutana mine was hugely profitable and eventually was sold to London interests for the staggering sum of £135,000. Others also made money but when the mine closed in 1918 it had been an economic failure for the investors. One of the greatest problems, which still exists today, had been transporting the copper economically from the mine to the nearest ports. like most copper mines in South Australia, the Cornish came to work in the mines.
So off to have a tour.
Hiding in the entry. The wind was freezing!
In we go. Mind boggling to think these tunnels were all hand picked out.
So they dug out tunnels and then picked the rock upwards opening up the top. Our guide told a story of the young boys used to dare each other to jump from one side to the other. Bearing in mind it was 180 metre drop below. Amazingly no-one ever fell!
After the rock was picked, the boys (starting underground at age 14) would run barrow loads of rock back to the surface. All this basically working in the dark, 12 hours a day, 6 days a week.
A bit of copper still in the rock.
A warren of tunnels.
One of the old bridges across a tunnel. There were layers of tunnels.
This lovely copper bucket sculpture in the town.
We also had lunch at the general store. A traditional cornish pastie. They were made two thirds with savoury and one third with fruit, so they had their main meal and desert in one. The reason the traditional pastie has the rib of pastry across the top, was to use as a handle. They would eat the main part and throw the extra pastry away, because their hands were far from clean.
The General Store also is well known for it's pies. So we grabbed a couple of cold ones to put in the freezer for a later meal.
The General Store also is well known for it's pies. So we grabbed a couple of cold ones to put in the freezer for a later meal.
Spent the night just down the Parachilna Gorge road at a free camp. Lovely winter morning to enjoy my coffee.
Parachilna Gorge
14th - 16th September 2017
A couple of lazy days free camping in the Parachilna Gorge. Beautiful sunny days and a peaceful setting. Just need to get across the rugged Parachilna Gorge road.
Fabulous countryside.
Man..the things you see.
The new van handled the rough brilliantly.
Halfway along the 33klm road is Angorichina. I had really wanted to walk out to the Blinman Pools, but it was 12klm return, and didn't fancy doing it on my own. Maybe another time?
Camping ground and general store. The store was amazing. It had everything, including a very good wine range. We picked up a very nice Wirra Wirra Scrubby Rise Shiraz - 1.5 lt bottle no less for $38. What a bargain all the way out here.
It's all out here......crests, dips and curves.
Our camp at Parachilna Gorge. Emus galore yet again.
Love the colours in the rock.
More goats.
And delicate flowers surviving the harsh environment.
Of course, it's not the bush without squawking corellas to keep us amused.
A row of ducks.
The daily emu parade.
Pretty good front yard.
They do things big up here. Check out the onion we got at Wilpena and the big bottle of red from Angorichina.
And what a shame. The road ends at the Prairie Hotel. And it was lunchtime. What else to do but settle in for one of their famous pies and another Fargher Lager. Lamb and pea pie with chips. Very, very yummy.
Bottoms up and belly full.
Copley / Leigh Creek
16th - 19th September 2017
Leigh Creek is a former coal-mining town. At the 2016 census, Leigh Creek had a population of 245, a 55% decrease from 550 in the previous census in 2011. Situated to the west of the northern Flinders Ranges, the current town is 13 km further south than the original town—it was moved in 1982 to allow the expansion of the mine. As a result, most facilities and buildings in the town are only a little over thirty years old, and with relatively modern designs.
The towns now really struggle to survive, relying mainly on tourists. We stayed at the dry and dusty Copley Caravan Park for a couple of days to check out the area.
First up was a drive a bit further north to Lyndhurst and a visit to "Talc Alf" Cornelius Johan Alferink. Quite the experience. This bloke does some great carvings out of talc stone. But he can chew your ear from the moment you arrive, to getting into the car and trying to leave. It was a hoot. He is extremely passionate about having our own Auzzie flag, and promotes his idea at every opportunity.
Some of his sculptures.
Think the van has seen better days.
Home sweet home.
Lyndhurst is the jump off for the Strzelecki Track. We drove up about 500 metres just to say we have been on the Strzelecki ha ha !
Back in Leigh Creek, we took a drive out to Aroona Dam. Very pleasant.
That Dam wall.
While at Copley, they also had a sign out for the "best pies in the Flinders". What else to do. Grab a couple more.
We now have a freezer full of pies.
So we well and truly discovered the Flinders. What an amazing region. It had so much more to see and do than we expected, and we loved it all. Absolutely a must do on anyone's travel list.
Now to pack up and head south. A big day on the road - 300 klms to our next stop at Melrose. A quick stop in Quorn to pick up some supplies and lunch at the Emporium Café - and to pick up yet another pie for the freezer!
Comments
Post a Comment